blind tasting club

2006 Rosé, Château Coupe-Roses, Minervois

alexis2 — 2008-07-03T05:24:00Z

If you ever happen to be in the South of France in the Languedoc Region, dont miss out on drinking a fresh Rosé wine on a sunny terrasse. Basically all the light Rosés served at the brasseries and restaurants are good for relaxed and happy moments with friends. There is one Rosé though I particularly like: Coupe Roses from the Minervois region. This one though is much more aromatic and intense, and therefore much more appropriate for the evening with a nice dinner. I already bought this wine 5 years ago when I lived in France and always try to get a sip of it when I happen to be there in the summer. And I kind of like the sophisticated label.

Christmann 2007 Vintage Presentation

alexis2 — 2008-06-17T10:21:00Z

These last weeks I really didnt blog much and there are a few things Id like to catch up on. Most importantly Id like to transcript the few notes I made about Christmanns 2007 Rieslings when I attended the vintage tasting at the estate in Gimmeldingen.

I tried some of the wines before at the VDP tasting and also at a restaurant and was quite thrilled with those, in particular with the basic Gutsriesling but also with the Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch.

Surprisingly when I retried those wines here a few weeks later they seemed totally different. So either these wines are going through different phases very quickly or my palate is going through difficult phases. Ok, lets just say its my palate.

For the basic Riesling, it just didnt sweep me off my feet this time and I cant tell why, it simply wasnt as harmonious and luscious anymore, but rather austere. Also the 2 other basics, the Ruppertsberg and Gimmeldingen Rieslings appeared a bit stiff, with a rather electric acidity in a filigree frame with contained fruit. I dont think that these wines are bad, but they just seemed a bit closed now. They clearly have the potential of good wines with loads of minerality, a vibrant acidity and elegant fruit, but somehow these components dont come together yet to form a well balanced wine. But Ive heard before that Christmanns wines need more time than others to attain maturity and have therefore no real worries. Im just so surprised that I perceived them so dramatically different on 2 occasions.

But there were more wines that seemed a bit closed. From the classified Lagenweine the Ruppertsbeger Linsenbusch which amazed me so much at restaurant Buchholz, just didnt seem so charming and lively suddenly. Such was the case also for Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten and the Gimmeldinger Biengarten - they all clearly have potential but just seem unfinished yet and should be tasted again on a later date. Having said that, the other 2 classified Lagenweine, Deidesheimer Maushöhle and Königsbacher Ölberg were both wonderful now, but also with potential for development. The Maushöhle appeared very charming with a floral nose, creamy fruit and a nice balance. The Ölberg was even a tad better, with more finesse and complexity, a lighter wine with a gently perfumed nose.

Then we stepped towards the SC Rieslings, representing the new line with selected grapes from the 3 big locations. This new line is meant to fill the gap between the Lagenweine and the Grosse Gewächse which are released in September.
All 3 SCs were much more powerful and intensive wines, vibrant, reminding already the GG style. Of course after the filigrane Ölberg, they seemed a bit too fat, but their purpose isnt the same of course. Most impressively came the Königsbach SC, with clear pineapple fruit, exotic somehow,but also honey. It felt smooth and filigrane despite higher alcohol content. Really beautiful.

So these were my few impressions. Unfortunately my notes werent that precise and only gave a general description of the wines. I cant wait though to retry the Maushöhle and Ölberg and produce some more detailed notes.

Pommes Boutique, Munich

alexis2 — 2008-06-15T17:33:00Z

This post has nothing to do with wine, but when I spotted Pommes Boutique in Munich a few weeks ago I knew I had to mention it somehow. I really enjoyed this fast food concept which is actually a cool revival of the good old French fries stall. The owners are true niche players, meaning that they chose a small field where they try to excel. So you wont get the generic frozen fries here but rather the genuine Belgian fries which are hand cut and fried twice to give it a good crunch. To get the right toppings youll then find this impressive sauce pump-station with a big selection of flavors for any taste. Of course fries alone would be boring, so they also prepare a small selection of side dishes: I had small couscous-lamb rissoles which were delicious. Oh, I shall not forget the home made ginger lemonade which was truly refreshing. So if youre looking for a different kind of lunch on Amalienstrasse one day, you should definitely give it a try.

sauce mix

2007 Breuer Rüdesheimer Estate Riesling, Rheingau

alexis2 — 2008-05-26T05:43:00Z

As the first sunrays appear, a quick trip to the Rheingau is a must. At Rüdesheim, the whole kitschy tourist-trapping scene which I dislike, melts with some of Rheingaus top winemaking scene which I kind of like :). One of the most acclaimed estates here in Rheingau even runs a hotel with a restaurant and winebar; of course a nice occasion to try Breuers 2007 vintage. And the Rüdesheimer Estate Riesling is as nice as one would expect it to be in such a perfect year. Elegant, not too overwhelming nose, Clear minerality and zingy acidity on the palate but well counterbalanced with fruit notes. Not too much fruit of course- Breuer is one of the role models of the dry Riesling renaissance in Germany. And this wine could somehow be the personification of a typical dry Rheingau Riesling for everyday.

2007 Künstler Vintage Presentation

alexis2 — 2008-05-23T05:18:00Z

Some of the fine vines of Hochheim

As every year, Künstler presented his newest vintage at the Estate in Hochheim. The sky was overcast, but it was warm and the thrill of the 2007 vintage allured guests on its own. Here are some of the wines I tried:

The 2007 Finnesse, is a light fruity Riesling with somehow atypical earthy notes reminding Sauvignon Blanc, interesting.

The 2007 Herrnberg Qba was one of our favorites, nice balance, with fruit and herbs, vibrant and harmonious at the same time.

The Hölle Kabinett trocken is a beautiful wine, with a more emphasized acidity, but what an elegant acidity, it is quite austere now with herbs and less fruit, and powerful, but should be improving massively with time.

The Stielweg Alte Reben trocken appeared also vibrant and powerful, very appealing.

Hochheimer Kirchenstück trocken Goldkapsel is actually a downgraded First Growth since the harvest yielded 52 Hl surpassing the allowed yield for first growths by 2 Hl. This is of course a very nice wine with fruit and power, but will need its time.

From the older vintages that were there to taste, the 2005 Hochheimer Hölle trocken Goldkapsel and the 2004 Hölle Riesling Auslese trocken were 2 splendid wines.

Restaurant Buchholz, Mainz-Gonsenheim

alexis2 — 2008-05-21T06:27:00Z

No one would guess that the small village Gonsenheim -a suburb of Mainz- would shelter such a gourmet restaurant. But I stumbled on it in the web and we found our way. Frank Buchholz is a young chef who among other stations worked at Tantris in Munich and Marquesi in Milano and has now settled down in this renovated peasant-style house. His cooking is modern, with Mediterranean influences, but also emphasizing regional ingredients like white asparagus or game meat.
The ambience is relaxed as is the staff, the light-flooded dining room creates a perfect frame for a great dinner. I could only advise you to give this restaurant a try, you won't be disappointed. The execution of the dishes was flawless and nearly every course delicious.

different kinds of salts for the bread

with compliments of the kitchen

scallop-carpaccio with truffle-vinaigrette and potatoe-mousse: fresh and earthy with a touch of acidity, the potatoes maybe a bit too creamy

pulpo-canneloni with ricotta-artichoke ravioli and balsamic olive vinaigrette. genuine pulpo taste in the canneloni and really loved the acidity of the vinaigrette with tomatoes and olives as a contrast.

First wine: 2007 Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch by Christmann and a direct recommendation - incredibly luscious of fruit and with a nice strucure - gotta visit the estate soon.

nicest neutralizer I had in along time: apple sorbet with celeri and mangoes

Maibock (deer) cooked in dough with purée of celery and peach crêpes - so tender

pre-dessert with compliments of the kitchen

Rhubarb 2 ways with strawberry sorbet and elder - yummy, especially with...

...this Pius Beerenauslese from Keller with a nice acidity to counterbalance the fruit

2004 Hochheimer Hölle Spätlese Trocken, Weingut Künstler

alexis2 — 2008-05-18T06:12:00Z

Still one of my favorites. The nose has nice exotic fruit with a slight caramel touch, with a little time and air it intensifies enormously transporting ripe passion-fruit and mangoes to your olfactory receptors. On the palate you have this typical Künstler symbiosis bringing fruit and slenderness together with loads of minerality as a link. The fruit is mouth-filling, the minerality transcendental, yet the wine doesnt appear heavy or stiff. The minerality is still there in the aftertaste, together with a luscious caramel note which lasts incredibly long. I would say this wine is on its peak; its just so nice to drink right now and really has its one personality. Great experience again 94

Exclusive First Look at the 2008 Vintage! Only here at BTC ;=)

alexis2 — 2008-05-15T04:04:00Z

The 2008 Riesling of Wachenheim is doing fine for now still a bit green though

Green Riesling meets blue sky in Wachenheim Biodynamic culture is observable

Figs are growing faster than grapes

As important for the region as Riesling is but maybe a bad vintage for FCK ;=)

update: in the end, a saved season for FCK

2003 Bodegas Alion , Ribera Del Duero

alexis2 — 2008-05-11T05:55:00Z

"... Nice dark colour with shiny crimson reflections. A sweet nose of sour cherries and raspberries with vanilla-oak tones hits your nose. On the palate then silky texture with a little grip of tannins still, but already quite evolved and easily drinkable. Mouth appears instantly sweet too sweet for my taste - with marmalade-like impression of cooked sour cherries, very intense fruit. Of course 14,5% alcohol amplify the sweet madness and the acidity is too few to counterbalance it effectively. At least a few hints of liquorice are hidden behind that sweet wall (I somehow find liquorice in many wines these days). The length is satisfying but comes with some slight bitter notes which dont really fit into the marmalade scheme.
As the evening passes though, I got a bit used to the sweetness and the wine felt more round; furthermore notes of cinnamon and clove appeared, adding a little complexity. My general impression though was still more towards disappointment, as the Alion seemed a bit made and overdone and couldnt really live up to expectations set by the Duero label and the Vega Sicilia group to which it belongs. Maybe with time all the pieces will find together, but I really have doubts of how this one will develop. Something seems to be lacking, maybe acidity.
Actually this is the right counter-example for that nice Margaux I had earlier, which perfectly combined power, fruit and light elegance. Ill have to recompare both in 10 years I guess. Need some pretty loyal readers here to share that experience then lol.
91 +- ??

2005 Wachenheimer Altenburg PC, Dr. Bürklin-Wolff, Pfalz

alexis2 — 2008-05-06T06:15:00Z

Hier noch ein nachgeholtes Posting einer Verkostungsnotiz die schon ein paar Wochen zurück liegt. Der 2005er Bürklin-Wolff Riesling der Wachenheimer Lage Altenburg lag schon anderthalb Jahre im Regal bevor er jetzt ins Glas kam. Er hat eine schöne helle Farbe mit leichten goldenen Reflexen. In der Nase dann ein wenig Honig und auch Zitrus-Noten, aber anfangs eher verhalten. Am Gaumen zwar noch Gerbstoffe, aber ringsherum spürbare Klarheit und Brillanz (Nein, dies ist keine Spülmittelwerbung). Elegante Frucht auch am Gaumen, dabei ein wenig cremige Struktur . Mit der zeit erscheint der Wein immer druckvoller. Er wirkt dann immer mehr wie ein Monolith, wie gefestigte Balance, ohne viele Geschmacksvariationen zwar, aber dafür sehr gut harmonierend. Die Säure wirkt dabei punktuell mit leicht salzigen Anklängen (erinnernd an oxydative Noten). Der Nachhall zu guter letzt ist recht ordentlich und komplex.
Es ist schwer den Wein einzuschätzen da er sich von Minute zu Minute zu verändern scheint: Mal ist er schlank, mal druckvoller. Von der Struktur her hat er alles, nur fehlt vielleicht noch ein bisschen die Aromen-Fülle. Auf jeden Fall eine spannende Geschichte, mal sehen wie Sie weitergeht. Denke er braucht noch 1-2 Jahre. 89+

2005 Château Boyd-Cantenac, Margaux

alexis2 — 2008-05-02T07:50:00Z

Der Wein zum Thunfischsteak. Tolle tiefdunkle, aber leuchtende Farbe. Feine Nase nach Cassis und Teer, elegant und nicht aufdringlich, etwas Würze. Am Gaumen direkt verführerisch: Samtig weich trotz seiner Jugend, beziehungsweise mit so feinen Tanninen, dass sie gerade einen angenehmen Widerstand erzeugen. Er vermählt Power und Eleganz, Frucht und Frische. Trotz 13,5% fühlt er sich leicht und elegant an. Eine Aromenvielfalt von Teer, Minze, Cassis und Leder sorgt für die notwendige Komplexität - auch im Nachhall, der schön lange anhält.

Wow, dachte ich, der Wein hats in sich. Was mir besonders gefällt ist das nichts an dem Wein irgendwie gemacht oder überdreht erscheint, er gibt sich einfach wie ein Monolith.

Nachdem ich von den 2005ern vor allem Pauillacs probiert habe, die allesamt noch behäbige Tanninbomben sind, die erst in Jahren wahren Genuss bieten werden, ist dieser Boyd-Cantenac der erste zugängliche Wein des Jahrgangs, der sich darüber hinaus in einer tollen Phase befindet. Jetzt bin ich natürlich gespannt wie er sich entwickelt, aber ich denke nicht, dass ich mir ob der Lebensdauer keine Sorgen mache muss, da er genügend Substanz zu haben scheint. Er hat bestimmt noch einige tolle Jahre vor sich.

Jetzt verstehe ich auch wieso Margaux 2005 von den Kritikern besonders gelobt wurde. Für meine Teil, kannte ich mich sowieso nicht gut aus mit Margaux, werde aber nach diesem Erlebnis vermehrt mein Augenmerk darauf konzentrieren, ich glaub jetzt nämlich, dass ich irgendwie ein Margaux-Typ bin.

93-94+

Mittelmeer-Cowboy

alexis2 — 2008-05-01T06:00:00Z

Genau das ißt der echte mediterrane Cowboy der ich bin. Thunfischsteaks, schön kross gebraten (jaja echte Männer essen's blutig, aber das war halt TK-Ware), dazu gegrilltes Gemüse mit Unmengen an fast verkohltem Knoblauch. Der Romantiker im Cowboy (rechte Gehirnhälft hat halt jeder) zupft noch Thymian über das ganze. Doch mit brachialer Gewalt wird dann das ganze in bestem Olivenöl versenkt (da hätte ich übrigens eine Topempfehlung. So zufrieden mit einem Olivenöl war ich schon lang nicht mehr), bevor es dann mit scharfem Maille-Senf reingeschaufelt wird.
Dazu trinkt der harte Cowboy eine Flasche 2005er Urgewalt im Samthandschuh, nämlich einen Chateau Boyd-Cantenac aus Margaux, ein echter Leckertropfen (dazu später mehr) Yeeeeha!

VDP Wine Fair The 2007 Blast!

alexis2 — 2008-04-30T09:21:00Z

nice weather outside, fabulous wines inside...

On Sunday I was lucky to attend the VDP Weinbörse in Mainz, a wine fair, where many of Germanys top winemakers presented their collections of the 2007 vintage.

And for those who didnt read it yet, 2007 was a blast! The summer wasnt too hot and rather dull, but then in autumn, nice weather held on throughout the harvest season permitting the grapes to ripe out comfortably. The pros say that this situation where the grapes have a lot of time to ripen is much better than a burning hot summer where the grapes ripe faster and might yield higher must-weights, but do not reach the right physiological ripeness due to water stress of the vines.

But are there also any flaws in 2007? I couldnt find any. The only difficulty in this vintage is to find wines which stood out among all those delicacies. Its much easier to detect the better wines in bad vintages, and I guess for a lot of winemakers less good vintages bear a bigger opportunity to distinguish oneself through intense work in the vineyards and talent in the cellar. So 2007 might be the year of the lucky wine buyer with sufficient quantities and excellent overall quality.

It is the least to say that those are some good auguries for visiting a vintage presentation. So I strolled through the fair, knowing that I only had time to try a few of these allegedly fantastic wines, and thus I visited the stands of some familiar winemakers and of some others I heard much about.

And I can only confirm, the big picture is certainly fantastic in Germany for 2007, and even at a smaller scale you can barely find disappointments. So rather than giving a detailed review (which I couldnt do since I didnt try enough of the wines) I decided to post some of my impressions, things I personally found noticeable.

First, while strolling through the Rheingau booths, I was really impressed with Künstlers 2007 vintage. Künstler creates a style of Riesling that only he can make, so mineral and fruity, and yet slim and elegant. And this vintage we really have a Künstler in perfection for me. All the wines have an incredible elegance while being so rich in minerals and texture. Wow!

Secondly I was thrilled to try the amazing Robert Weil TBA, with dazzling golden color, rich oily texture and feeling like an explosion of caramel and exotic fruits on your palate. The length is incredible and holds for minutes The other wines of Robert Weil, I also found outstanding by the way.

Now that I mentioned Weils TBA, I also have to mention Schloss Johannisbergs which is a little lighter, but still of unbeatable intensity with caramel all over.

The wines of Josef Leitz came a little less on the fruit but instead were loaded with minerals and spiciness as usual. Some were a little more slender with finesse, some heavier with loads of power - all of them had nice mineral substance. The Berg Kaisersteinfels Alte Reben showed some wonderful creaminess on the palate as did also the Berg Rottland. I was even lucky to sneak a peek of the famous Goldkapsel: what a monument of power and minerality!

In the Pfalz, Christmann also showed up with an outstanding Riesling collection. What impressed me a lot there was the very good quality of the entry Riesling, so full rich and balanced, just yummy. Furthermore, the very luscious Königsbach SC might be a promising indication for the yet to come Idig GG.

Staying in the Pfalz, Knipsers Sauvignon Blanc, which has already been acclaimed by the press also received my blessings ;=). Its a very clean wine with clear fruit, refreshing and 100% cat pee free. Of course, at Knipser estate one cannot overleap his reds, even if they had nothing to do with 2007, the youngest poured being a 2004. Theyre convincing as usual, marrying finesse and power, but still very young with sharp tannins.

So back to the whites of 2007. I was running out of time and went on to Rheinhessen, but only tried very few wines there and missed out plenty of top producers. At Kühling Gillots booth I spotted one very interested Michel Bettane - I bet he also liked the Qvinterra Riesling, which has a vibrant texture, a certain spiciness and is all in all a luscious wine. At Heyl zu Herrnsheims the Rothschiefer was an equally good wine.

So that was it. The day just passed by too quickly and in the end just too many wines remained untasted. I missed out on entire regions like Saar, Baden, Nahe and only had a few tries of Mosel, Rheinhessen and Franken. But in the end the conviction that 2007 is a fantastic vintage is built up and pretty much cemented and hopefully there will be many more tastings over the next few months and years.

1995 Gallo Estate Cabernet, North Sonoma

alexis2 — 2008-04-23T09:35:00Z

A well-known rooster...

I always had, and still will have after that on bottle the image of a Gallo wine being an industrial supermarket wine.
It is so common to see this brand on the shelves everywhere, and many bring these wines to parties or gatherings, sometimes even me. The success of Gallo is based on the steady quality of industrially produced wine which evokes in each one of us the trust we can have in a brandname.
But this one bottle of Estate Cabernet we had was none of the supermarket stuff. This was one of Gallos' premium wines and it was the first time I had one of those. So how does Gallo label it so that we see it's not the regular stuff? Pretty hard task, but the marketing team found a solution and it nearly looks ironical (at least I had to smile big time)-everything on the label is written both in French and English, even the alcohol content indication. So premium... even the French buy it huh !?! On the other hand I was quite impressed when I pulled out a damn long high quality cork Now I stopped smiling, this cork raised expectations and it was time to get serious.

But we weren't disappointed. Wow, the colour was amazing, black ink with some slight purple hues. The nose was quite intense and developed over time. It started with berries, such as blueberries but had more and more a tendency towards prunes with a hint of cinnamon. It also had a Cabernet-typical slight Paprika edge. Very satisfying nose.
On the palate tannins were very finely grained, but still were adstringent at the beginning. They softened up quite quickly though with a little aeration. The fruit was again very nice with prunes and berries, and a small mint like freshness in the finish, which developed into a huge and complex eucalyptus note. Very beautiful length also.

Well well, this Cabernet shows great winemaking talent in the end. The most convincing Californian Cabernet I had actually (I didnt have many though). It was already 13 years old and had aged perfectly. I even thought it could still improve for some years. If only this stuff could be in each Gallo bottle. 92-93+

... in case Europeans can't read American numbers ;)

More Malaysia Food Impressions

alexis2 — 2008-04-21T12:04:00Z