2006 Terrassen Riesling, Weingut Loimer, Kamptal

Der 2006er Terrassen Riesling, den ich schon merhmals im Glas hatte zeigt jetzt Reife. Ob er gar seinen Höhepunkt schon überschritten hat? Ein intensiver Ton der etwas Richtung Petrol neigt dominiert das Bild. Hintenraus fängt eine leichte Bitterkeit an sich zu zeigen: wird sie etwa in Zukunft das Zepter übernehmen? Die Aromenvielfalt und -Tiefe scheint mir geringer zu werden. Ein schöne, fast salzige Mineralik ist aber immer noch vorhanden.


2006 Monziger Halenberg GG., Weingut Emrich-Schönleber, Nahe

Die Nase ist verblüffend intensiv mit praller Frucht, obwohl sie auch etwas in Richtung Reife neigt. Auch am Gaumen zeigt der Wein enorme Präsenz und Fülle. Das wird richtig deutlich als wir zum Vergleich einen Vollrads Selektion 2007 probieren, ein süffiger, recht fruchtiger Riesling der uns sonst immer prima schmeckt; hier war er nur noch ein laues Wässerchen! Die Säure ist ausserdem elegant und perfekt ausbalancierend zur Frucht. Nach ausgiebiger Belüftung dreht der Wein dann nochmal richtig auf und zeigt Tiefe und einen langen Nachhall.

2007 Von der Fels Riesling, Weingut Keller, Rheinhessen

Die Nase scheint auch hier sehr reif. Am Gaumen exotisch anmutende, reife Frucht, dazu etwas Karamell. Schöne Säure die für einen zum mit der Zunge schnalzenden Schmelz sorgt (Zungenbrecher-Alarm!). Die Ihn auszeichnende Mineralität hat der Wein etwas an die reifen Fruchtnoten verloren. Dennoch zeigt er eine gute Präsenz, ist in seiner Trockenheit süffig wie eh und je und macht einfach spaß. Eine Entwicklungsprognose vermag ich jedoch nicht abzugeben.

Manchmal bringt der Postbote zur Abwechslung auch mal Gutes in Papierform… statt immer nur Gutes in Weinkartonform zu bringen. So geschehen letzte Woche als ich vom anonymen Koch Claudio als Präsent eine Kopie seines neuen Buchs erhielt! Vielen Dank dafür an dieser Stelle, Claudio!

Claudios Foodblog „Anonyme Köche“ hat für mich schon fast den Status Kult-Blog erreicht. Was nicht heißen soll, dass es sich um ein abgehobenes Erfolgsblog mit "Starallüren" handelt. Im Gegenteil: Man spürt hier förmlich die Leidenschaft fürs Kochen und den Willen des Autors mit Gleichgesinnten ins Gespräch zu kommen - jeder Kommentar wird mit Überlegung und Witz beantwortet. Ein waschechtes Blog sozusagen, in dem sich jeder Foodie willkommen und unter Freunden fühlt.

Doch was vor allem Spaß und Freude macht ist der Content! Pures Blog-Entertainment! Claudios Artikel sind immer mit viel Infos bestückt kommen aber vor allem immer locker und witzig rüber. Um es schnell auf den Punkt zu bringen: Ich fand das Blog schon immer druckreif!

So und nun liegt es hier vor mir. Übrigens das erste „Blogbuch“ das ich in den Händen halte (es gibt je schon einige, zB von Delicious Days oder Pim) und ich finde es ausgesprochen gelungen. Es liest sich wie eine Mischung aus Tagebuch und Kochbuch, enthält dabei natürlich einige Rezepte die ich schon vom Blog kenne, aber jetzt hab ich sie halt immer griffbereit. Und selbstverständlich werde ich auch ein paar Sachen ausprobieren, und sofern sie gelingen, dann auch an dieser Stelle posten.

A weekend without a drop of wine it was! Maybe a drop of beer though... or two!

This is the third bottle of Southern French Red Wine I had this summer. Unfortunately I lost my notes on it, but I thought I should still share these pictures of an unusual and poetic label that genuinely reflects a relaxed summer in the Provence. About the content of the bottle, as far as I remember it was a well made everyday red wine with lots of sun in the bottle that “Les Terres Promises” vinified here. I think the label very well explains for what kind of ambiance this wine is intended for; I took it as an “instruction manual” and it worked.

Als ich im Sommer ein paar Wochen unterwegs war, hab ich glatt eine nennenswerte Episode von Gary Vaynerchucks Wine Library TV Show verpasst. Was sag ich, nennenswert? Eher meinte ich historisch! Oder gab es je einen Auftritt einer deutschen Weinkönigin in englischsprachigen Medien? (ehrlich gesagt weiß ich es nicht) Auf jeden Fall fand ich es eindrucksvoll wie die noch amtierende Queen Marlies Dumbsky (hier auf Twitter) Gary Paroli bot in der Analyse dreier deutscher Riesling. Check yourself!

Every Winedrinker needs a break. Good opportunities come up in Bavarian beer gardens for example. Here the Seehaus in the Englischer Garten in Munich just after a light shower.


Or at the Augustinerkeller beergarden where I was sitting on Franz' place, sorry bout' that Franz! (German Stammtisch-culture at its best)


Aber nun doch wieder etwas Wein: Das Marketing-Genie Schneider erstaunt mich immer wieder mit seinen amüsant-cleveren Geistesblitzen! Hier seine Oversize-Flaschen in der Vitrine von Schuhbeck's Kochschule!


Zu guter letzt noch ein Blick auf den mythischen Apostelwein des Bremer Ratskeller. Erschwinglisch? Noch beschwingend? Viele Fragen die für mich erstmal offen bleiben werden (Nur der Wineterminator kann etwas dazu sagen). Aber eins ist zumindest sicher: Rheingau rules!

Vacation breakfast at noon next to the Boqueria market in Barcelona: Olives between a Caña and a shot of Gazpacho.


The inside of the market with all the famous stands was packed with tourists, so we chose a tiny place just in front of the market.


"L'appétit vient en mangeant!"


"Picapoll", an autochton grape variety from Catalunya I never heard about before...


...and coming from a tiny DO next to Barcelona: Pla de Bages. It was crisp, floral, refreshing. Very enjoyable during those hot summer days.

After having spent some time in Madrid visiting museums and eating tapas, I was on my own for 2 days and had to find a meaningful occupation for myself. Since I already got my dose of art and architecture, I decided to become hedonistic and locate my favorite wine shop Lavinia which I already thoroughly inspected in Paris (they now have shops in Barcelona and Geneva also). Of course, I expected the Madrid mothership to also have a specimen of my favorite toy and I wasn't disappointed. In the end I spent nearly 3 hours in the store, sipping what "the machine" had to offer. Here are my notes.


2007 Predicador Blanco, Rioja, Benjamin Romeo. A white cuvée made of Garnacha Blanca, Malvasia and Viura. Weird nose to me: rather floral but reminding cidre and furniture polish at the same time. A bit stinging on the palate, rather high acidity, some wax, slightly alcoholic, a little salty in the finish and a very good length. This is a totally untypical wine to me but I would also agree with you if you think my notes are a bit untypical too.

2007 Font de La Figuera, Priorat. Cuvée of Garnacha Blanca and Viognier. Slightly floral nose. Pungent palate with assyrtiko-like acidity. Quite long finish but also with lots of alcohol feel. I kept the description short because this wine isn’t really my cup of tea anyways or it might need an adequate food match.


2006 Château Carbonnieux blanc, Pessac-Léognan. One of the prestigious whites from Bordeaux made of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle of course. Much more round and balanced than the 2 wines before and with an excellent texture. Aromatics were quite intense, and while they seemed a bit banal from the start, they developed fast into a mysterious amalgam of slight smoke notes with fruit and elegant acidity. One can see that the wine is still very young but the wood is certainly very well integrated. Interesting first encounter with this wine for me!

2006 Puligny Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive. Very intense nose (reminding a Riesling BA or TBA in intensity) of herbs, lemon balm, mint freshness, some honey. Appears concentrated and balsamic on the palate. Palate feels a little floury or dusty in texture also and has a strong but elegant acidity. The finish seems a bit short though compared to all the intensity on the front-end. But that nose is just awesome; you could sniff it for hours. Price tag is 50 Euro btw, getting more and more expensive.


2002 Rayas Blanc Résèrve, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape. Another blockbuster white wine. Very dark colour. Very intense nose, ethereal and lemony. On the palate stern with strength and steel impression. It appears not that broad but alcohol seems a bit too apparent still. Finish is quite short which is a bit disappointing and it shows a bitter aftertaste. It might still develop but I’m not sure I’d spent 80 Euro on that bet.


The machine with the red wines

2006 Deserto, Azul y Garanza, Navarra. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Very dark colour. Fat and jammy nose. Appears soft on the palate. Lots of sweet and overripe fruit, some spice but also a slight bitterness in the end. Very long finish. Its sweetness and fruit make this wine a crowd pleaser and probably girls’ favorite. But this modern style with lack of subtlety isn’t quite what I would look for, especially not for 50 Euro.

2006 Finca Santa Sabina, Bodega Otto Bestué, Somontano. Cuvée of Cabernet and tempranillo. Very exotic nose of Coconut and chocolate, or should I say exotic barrel note? But it is quite elegant and not overdone. Mouth shows a medium tannin structure with fine grained appearance. Nice fruit of cherries and berries, medium long finish. For 13 Euro, definitely a modern styled wine I would consider buying.

2005 Anima Negra, Mallorca. Very dark and mysterious colour. What a nose: leather, fruit, herbs and spices. Finally a wine with character! But it still has balance despite being extremely full-bodied. Its sauvage strength definitely cries out for a roast lamb, but even on its own I definitely would prefer this wine to the jam-like techno type of wines of modern Spain. (91-92?)



2007 Côte Rôtie “Only 23”, Jean-Michel Stéphan. Very young wine. Loads of spice but also lots of wood. Appearing even younger on the palate with a wall of tannins. Thus being astringent. Fruit is also there and the cherry taste seems nearly exaggerated. An impression of cigarbox is very clear. The finish seems medium long. Definitely a wine that needs many more years of cellaring.


2006 Flor de Pingus. The small brother of Peter Sissek’s legendary Pingus from Ribera. Very ripe fruit. Appears sweet with fine tannins but the impression of a thin wine also persists. Compared to the excellent 2004 I once had, this is ridiculously simplistic and plump and for 95 Euro someone’s being fooled in my eyes. But maybe I’m wrong and it just needs more time and air. Parker gave it 94 points I heard.


1998 Vega Sicilia Unico, Ribera Del Duero. A legendary name, no doubt! And I was pretty enthusiastic to try this one. Colour was dark and elegant. Nose was intense and dense. Leather came to my mind, but also berry fruit and a hint of a vanilla tone. On the palate sweet fruit that didn’t seem kitschy, maltose, a little animal tone, good balance. A wine that seems very technical, where each component appears to be fine-tuned to perfection. Appears like a mix of ingredients that needed to be put together to make a genius wine. It definitely is a very good wine also, maybe a bit tiring to be drunk on its own like this. Needs much more time and has of course the ageing potential its legend has been built on. 93+


2004 Château Margaux. Another legend(ary name) which I was keen to compare with the VSU. Nice colour. Perfect nose of saddle, berries and dark bread. On the palate it unites finesse with power. Nearly perfect body, voluminous but not overdone. Leather, blackberries and spice on the palate. Somehow tart and fruity at the same time. Beautiful finish with a nice length. 95. This wine seems much more honest to me than the Vega Sicilia, much less made and technical, maybe with a bit more Terroir expression. But then again, comparing a 2004 and a 1998 probably ins’t fair.

Lavinia Wine Store
C/ José Ortega y Gasset 16
28006 MADRID, Spain
+34 902 181 387

Food and San Sebastian are nearly synonymous words. One cannot get into one of the numerous bars of the old town without being confronted to huge amounts of delicious Pintxos (Basque word for Tapas) which are displayed on the counter, ready for being picked and eaten.


I seized the opportunity for trying one or 2 things I’ve never had befor like those angulas or baby eels. They actually don’t really taste like fish, rather like slightly sweet seafood. But most importantly they are pretty delicious


Then we had those Percebes. Mythic mussel which is being harvested by divers in extreme conditions since they are being found on the steep and rocky shores of the Atlantic where waves hit and break with fierce energy. They are quite difficult to crack open, or lets say the sharp edges of their claws can cut you under your finger nail if you’re not careful. The flesh is quite tasty though and justifies the effort.


Dried Hams are of course a must in each bar. Considering that one quality ham costs at least 300 Euro, most bars thus have quite some values hanging on their ceilings.


One exotic Pintxo creation chases the other. This was called Foie with mango and was in fact delicious duck liver with mango (of course).


Guests all leave their used tissues and dirt on the floor but that also seems to be part of the tradition.


One last sunset. Next stop is Madrid!

Not only has the Mayenne region an incredibly beautiful landscape of green pasture and small hills, its people also know what true hospitality is and they make their guests wish they would stay longer.
How lucky did we feel on the first stop of our road trip through Europe when our friend Antoine and his wife Azuka received us with a delicious dinner and lots of good wines. Among those was also a really incredible sweet wine discovery for me. Luckily I didn’t lose the notes I’ve taken that night and am now able to report a bit. But first of all, thank you for the warm welcome and copious dinner.


After we quenched our thirst with excellent Champagne (Pol Roger was it?) - which also reinvigorated us after 2 hours of traffic jam around Paris - we were amazed to find out we would have freshly seared Foie Gras as a starter, plus an incredibly perfect wine match .


Quarts de Chaume is a small Loire appellation for sweet wines made of the Chenin Blanc variety (actually a tiny vineyard with steep slopes within the Côteaux du Layon appellation). Antoine served us 2 vintages of Domaine des Baumard with the 1997 being a blast! Perfect balance between fruit and acidity, nice nose with nut aromatics and freshness, full flavor and very dense on the palate, there also superb freshness, incredible length and not the hint of an age note. Great stuff!!! The 1993 we had in comparison from a less good vintage appeared totally different with darker colour and a slight age note similar to aged Riesling.


Isn't this colour perfect?

Everybody’s darling Robert Parker describes it as follows in 2005 (in: The World's Greatest Wine Estates Année 2005):

Baumard's 1997 Quarts de Chaume was tasted five times over a six-month period and it is a remarkably consistent wine. With extended aeration it appears to gain in focus and fresness, a trait that is surprising in the generally heavy and superripe 1997 vintage. This dense, oily, jammy wine exudes caramelized minerals and honeyed aromas. On the palate, marzipan, candied grapefruit, and tropical fruits can be detected within its viscous, yet fresh, core. This massive offering will require some cellaring before reaching its peak. Drink it between now and 2020. 94 points.
I guess I can agree with him!


Then, we were served a perfectly grilled Côte à l’os: juicy and tender inside while being crispy outside. And what would match it better than some nice Bordeaux?


1999 Château Haut-Carles from Fronsac had nice red and black fruit both in the nose and on the palate. The barrel ageing left a slight impression of wax. The texture was silky and some powerful tannins were still there but afterwards the body seemed a bit thin and the finish also showed quite short. But the wine managed to improve a lot with a bit of airing; it both appeared fuller and showed a more satisfying length then. Maybe the red wine of the evening in the end.


A 1999 Château Duhart-Milon from Pauillac had a dark and brilliant colour. It showed a beautiful nose mixing floral notes with coconut and chocolate, the exotic touch probably emanating from the barrel. On the palate it showed quite ripe with medium body. Finish and length were quite satisfying, but compared to the first wine it would be the one with less ageing potential considering the thinner structure.


Finally a 1999 Château Lafon-Rochet from St-Estèphe was awaiting us. But unfortunately at that point my note-taking became less frequent. I can only impart my description as: red fruit- exotic start- sauvage nose… that is not a thin wine of course but a truly thin description! It was probably time to go to bed before driving to Bordeaux the next morning!

So thanks again for your hospitality Antoine! This was really a highlight at the beginning of our trip!