Inspiration for this lunch stop on our way from Bordeaux to San Sebastian came from French Restaurant Blog Simon Says. I read this page a few months ago and when the time for planning our road trip came, it found its way back into my mind. I never checked on a map though where it was exactly and so it was a nice surprise when our GPS guided us through beautiful small roads across the country side to the only restaurant that was open on a Sunday afternoon. How lucky again! Because I didn’t check opening times either. But sometimes one is rewarded when relying on luck only (and Simon’s recommendation): it was delicious Basque cuisine we were being served at l’Auberge du Pas De Vent in a warmhearted and charming environment. Definitely a recommendation I can pass on.


Les piments doux farcis, compotée de légumes d'été infusés au chèvre, tranche d'aubergine confite et salamanqua poêlée... Ah peppers! Seems so Basque to me, and it tasted refreshingly good!


Le charnu de cochon gascon frotté au poivre, confit lentement et pressé d'ail à la crème double... I think I never had slowly cooked pork this way, basically melting on the fork. Quite delicious also with a nice pepper flavour!


The pork came with this cute casserole with plenty of veggies. How could this meal be unhealthy ;)


My friend had a dish of the day which was a nice seafood platter with plenty as you can see.


La canette de la ferme « Lahourie » rôtie en cocotte, gratinée de pommes de verger et jus de canette au Jurançon... is what my other friend had.


Some Rosé to go with it, et voilà, we had enough energy now to resume our trip to San Sebastian.

When we reached our waypoint in Bordeaux, what other thing could come into my mind but wine? It was too late though for a chateaux visit that day, and since we haven’t done any research on the city prior our arrival either we just strived through the streets of Bordeaux, admiring the buildings whilst keeping an eye open for a nice wine bar at the same time.
And we were lucky. On the small square Place Saint-Pierre we came across the “Bô Bar” which was packed with happy people and instantly looked tempting. One tiny table was left and we quickly seized our chance. First we had to order some food of course and the friendly waitress quickly brought us a nice ham and paté platter which was delicious but of course, here it is all about the wine.



And there is something particular about this wine bar. In fact, it is the way you order the wine. You just tell the waitress what style of wine you crave and she would surprise you with her choice; it is only later that the chef will reveal the label. Now that is a method pleasing the blindtaster I am (or should be more often). It is definetely fun and it guarantees some variety especially if you're ready to play this game a longer time ;). So if you're in Bordeaux, this is definetely a nice place to drop by (and they also have real Basque food on the menu!)



Finally here is a wine I kind of liked and wanted to remember. A white Vouvray named "La dilettante" by Pierre Breton, a winemaker totally commited to byodinamic winemaking. It was a simple wine but with enough personnality to impress. I decided I got to keep an eye on Breton's wine and occasionaly taste some more.

Dank der häufigen Empfehlungen auf Barry’s Weinblog, haben wir nun auch das familiengeführte Gourmet Restaurant Rebstock in Waldulm entdecken können. Wirklich angenehm ist es an einem warmen Abend auf der Terrasse des Hauses zu verweilen und die Idylle zwischen Weinbergen und Felsen auf sich wirken zu lassen. Besser wird es nur noch wenn nach und nach Speis & Trank auf den Tisch kommen. Hier die kleine Fotoreportage:


Krabbenfleisch-Bällchen auf Lauchgemüse


Weinbergschnecken


gefüllte Wachtel


Vitello Tonnato


Gebratene Foie Gras auf Kalbsbries-Ravioli mmmh


Was war das noch mal? War nicht meins...


Lammfilet im Schafskäsemantel, auf den Punkt gegart!


Erster Wein: Andreas Männle Weißburgunder Kabinett 2007. Ein sehr weicher, runder und erfrischender Tropfen; Ein Schmeichler ohne Ecken und Kanten. Aber genau der richtige Einstieg ins Essen nach so einem heißen Sommertag. Empfehlenswert. Auf jeden Fall macht er neugierig auf dieses Weingut, das uns noch nicht bekannt war.


2007 Durbacher Plauelrain Riesling Trocken vom Weingut Laible kam als nächstes ins Glas. Für unsere Rheingau-, Pfälzer- und Nahe-Riesling-geprägten Weingedächtnisse ist diese Art von Riesling natürlich sehr ungewohnt; sehr rund mit relativ wenig Säure. Irgendwie... burgundisch. Dennoch recht aromatisch mit fast wilder Nase und schöner Länge.


Als Kontrast mussten wir nun unbedingt den 2007 Loibner Steinertal Riesling Smaragd von FX Pichler aus der Wachau ordern. Ein ganz anderes Kaliber mit komplett anderer Persönlichkeit. Ungemein intensiv, explosiv am Gaumen mit schöner Struktur, und endlosem Finish mit einer gewissen Salzigkeit. Es wäre nun eigentlich unmöglich zu dem vorigen Wein zurück zu wechseln: Dieser ist im Vergleich nur noch ein armes Weinwässerchen.


Zum Dessert gab 's noch 2007 Ruländer Auslese trocken, vom Weingut Schneider vom Kaiserstuhl, ein regionaler Tropfen also. Sehr generöser Grauburgunder, mit mehr Frucht und Süße aber noch lange kein Süßwein. Genau was wir wollten und er hat auf jeden Fall gut zum Nachspeisenteller gepaßt.

Dieser Gasthof ist in der Tat ein schöner "Geheimtipp". Nicht nur das Essen ist gekonnt zubereitet von Herrn Hodapp und sein Team, sondern auch die riesige Weinkarte ist mehr als nur ein Blick wert, verstecken sich darin doch sowohl edle regionale Tropfen als auch Preziosen aus Bordeaux und Übersee. Auf jeden Fall, vielen Dank für diesen Geheimtipp nahe Offenburg.

Ein kleiner Restaurant-Tipp am Rande. Vor allem interessant für alle die im Frankfurter Raum sich befinden, oder öfter mal auf der A3 zwischen Frankfurt und Köln unterwegs sind.

In Idstein befindet sich das Restaurant des Hörhof' das mit seinem Lindenhof genannten Innenhof einen sehr idyllischen Rahmen im altertümlichen Stil bietet. Seit kurzer Zeit ist ein neuer Koch am Werke und an diesem Abend (vor ein paar Wochen nun schon..) wurde uns ein Probier-Menu angeboten welches sein Können unter Beweis stellen sollte.
Auf das Menü haben wir verzichtet. Aber sein Können konnte er trotzdem unter Beweis stellen.


Dieses in Zitrone pochiertes Kalbsfilet mit gebratenen Artischocken war ein wahrer Gaumenschmaus und noch dazu in einer wirklich großzügigen Portion serviert. Alle Achtung! Das kannte ich so nicht, fand es also sehr kreativ und war dazu noch sehr gekonnt zubereitet. Alle anderen Speisen waren auch mehr als zufriedenstellend, und Preis-Leistung sind hier auf jeden Fall in einem angenehmen Verhältnis.


Dazu gab es diesen Pinot Grigio von Livio Felluga aus dem Friaul, der trotz 13,5 Umdrehungen erstaunlich leicht auf der Zunge erschien und sich erst im Nachhall kräftig und etwas aromatischer zeigte. Aber vor allem das schöne Etikett hat es mir angetan…

Jacques Le Divellec has been running his (1 Michelin star) fish and seafood restaurant for quite some years now and is known as one of the references for such cuisine in Paris.


Claires de Marennes N°4 Oysters, straight out of the restaurants' seawater tanks: they couldn’t be more fresh and were some of the most delicious oysters I had.


“Le St Pierre au Laurier” out of the oven...


…and on our plates with its “Sauce aux grains noirs”: a very tasty and juicy fish. The creamy sauce seemed a bit old-fashioned but tasted quite good too.


The “Bar de Ligne des Côtes Bretonnes” cooked in salt crust


A nice Pouilly Fumé


A White Burgundy with personality: I think it was a Mercurey

Le Divelled indeed delivers very good fish and seafood quality. In particular the oysters are quite worth a detour. Otherwise the ambiance is a bit old-fashioned and the fact that the restaurant was nearly empty didn't help. And I think it wasn't packed for a reason: the horrendous pricetags! I'm actually very sure I won't return soon considering those prices, and even despite those delicious oysters. Or maybe I'll return there only for oysters one day. Oh, who could tell me where I could get comparable oysters in Paris?

Das Gasthaus zur Kanne in Deidesheim, in dem wir vor kurzem einen leckeren 1999er Pechstein genossen haben, sollte hier natürlich auch nicht unerwähnt bleiben. Viel zu interessant ist allem voran dessen Weinkarte, als das man nicht ein Wort über sie verlieren müsste. Da dieses Lokal, welches sich das älteste Gasthaus der Pfalz nennt, zum Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf gehört, befinden sich auf der Weinkarte unzählige hauseigene Rieslinge aus besten Forster Lagen und auch aus vielen verschiedenen Jahrgängen. Dazu gesellen sich nochmal so viele Weine anderer Pfälzer Weingüter: Koehler Rupprecht, Mosbacher, Christmann, Müller-Catoir und auch der junge Szeneweingott Markus Schneider sind unter anderem vertreten. (direkter Link zur Weinkarte). Wer nach internationalen Flaschen sucht, ist hier übrigens fehl am Platz, denn die Karte beinhaltet ausschließlich Pfälzer Gewächse.


stolzes Schild

Die Speisekarte kann man als von rustikal bodenständig bis gutbürgerlich mit Raffinement reichend bezeichnen. Eine sichere Bank sind auf jeden Fall alle Pfälzer Schmankerl wie zum Beispiel der weltberühmte Pfälzer Saumagen, der hier besonders gelungen schmeckt. Insbesondere die eher rustikalen Gerichte scheinen mir mehr als gelungen zu sein. Etwas raffiniertere Gerichte wie etwa ein Jungschwein-Kotelett sind zwar solide gemacht, Ihnen fehlt aber ab und an der Glanz der gehobenen Gastronomie, den Sie beim Lesen der Karte vermuten lassen. Hier und da hatte ich zum Beispiel den Eindruck, die Salzdosierung sei etwas ungenau. Doch wenn das überhaupt der Rede wert ist, dann machen das der mehr als freundliche und vor allem weinkompetente Service sowie die vorzüglichen Weine mehr als wett.


Leckere Entenstopfleber


Schweinekotelett

In 2008 this charming restaurant near Mainz confirmed its 1 star Michelin rating. But even without knowing this (somehow we skipped Michelin ratings at our first visit) our last visit was appealing enough to make us return. What struck again was this relaxed atmosphere without any stiffness: the mix of white walls and bright woods has an appeasing effect on the human mood, and of course the service is always considerate, charming and never distant. There is just no reason not to feel at ease here. And even so the whole place always radiates the classiness of a fine dining restaurant.


Breads and different salts. Californian Chardonnay salt was an interesting discovery.


Superb amuse with compliments of the kitchen. Especially the quail candy on radicchio and small pear cubes was excellent. The pear was infused with a little ginger flavor. Loved it! The prawn ball on cucumber was also nice with a play on acidity on the cucumbers. But that quail…mmh


Green asparagus, tuna and sokeye salmon on wasabi cream, crunchy cannelloni and avocado. Nice play of textures and tastes although I would have loved a self explaining arrangement on the plate guiding me a little better through the ideal eating order. I’m not sure I got the best play out of it. Still a very refreshing starter full of flavors; maybe the salad on top wasn’t necessary…


Salad of spaghettini with seared lotte and greenpea-basil vinaigrette. Haven't tried that one.


Cream cheese and artichoke filled ravioli with olive and balsamic vinegar dressing. Fruity and hearty, nice vinegar touch!


Bergamotte ice cream in pineapplesoup with milk rice espuma. Refreshing Trou Normand: at the same time fruity and mysteriously spiced.


Sole coated in spinach with olive-potato purée and estragon-mustard sauce. Incredibly juicy yet firm to the bite sole. The sauce was quite hearty but it worked.


Accompanied by a very elegant Philipp Kuhn Chardonnay from the Pfalz


Braised veal cheek in red wine, plum-filled “potato pockets”, celeriac puree. As expected, some extremely tender veal. Good play with the plum ravioli and the intense red wine sauce. Nice example of interpretation of a classic combination. No need to put anything molecular in here.


Curd Cheese soufflé with marinated blackberries and Grand Marnier ice cream. Gentle ending.


Delicious dessert wine with an elegant acidity and exotic fruit by Keller

This was a very satisfying dinner. One can also perfectly comprehend the one star Michelin rating. Frank Buchholz’ creativity was seizable with every single dish. Maybe even more could be possible: I feel there is space for more thought and sense in the execution of this admirable creativity. More precision in the play of tastes and textures is the one thing that would come to my mind. But who am I to argue. Again, this was a superb meal and I’m keen on seeing how this restaurant will develop.

PS: The à la carte selection of dishes is quite broad with something for every taste. The pricing might be on the lower end for 1 star restaurants; one should count approx. 70 Euro for a 3 course meal. The wine list is not too big but there is enough for everyone’s taste with a logical focus on regional growths from Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Nahe. Keller and Künstler aficionados will be satisfied, but also Burgundy is fairly represented. Concerning the pricing, the wine list offers quite some bottles between 25 and 35 Euro, and also several wines served by the glass.

Another highlight in Kuantan should be this seafood restaurant which doesn't look very spectacular from the outside...


... nore from the inside (it does have a funny name though, Chinese version of Don Juan)


Instead it serves delicious stuffed crab, full of juicy crab meat and spring onions. They come with a nicely balanced fruity hot sauce for dripping and dipping; nothing more is needed.


Their lobster with butter and garlic is also delicious.


The abalones are also very good, but maybe sauced up with a hint too much glutamate

It was a supersatisfying seafood feast and to European standards also quite a steal since the bill was less than 400 RM for 7 people (about 80 Euro, and we also had tiger prawns and other delicacies which are not pictured here)

If you happen to pass through the city Kuantan when travelling on the East Coast of Malaysia there is at least one spot you should have on your list. Kopi Hai Peng is a very popular Kopitiam (coffee house) among locals, but also many visiting Malaysians from Kuala Lumpur and other parts of the country rave about it.



It is open from the morning on until 6 pm and is always crowded. Families with children, Workers taking a break, rounds of old men, housewifes, some tourists, people of all origins gather here for their dosis of caffeine.





Actually what makes it special to me in the first place is this particular atmosphere - it is the first place I encounter in Malaysia with an ambiance reminding Southern European cafés.



But what makes it special to everyone else here is of course their Vietnamese style coffee which is roasted in a particular way giving it a barbequeued, charcoal like flavor. For getting their bestseller you have to order an iced Hai Peng Coffee; you’ll be served iced coffee with condensed milk in sealed plastic cups and its flavor really has potential for addiction.

Of course they also serve food, breakfast buns with the traditional Malaysian Kaya jam ( containing coconut milk and pandan leafs) , or sweet peanut butter and banana sandwiches.


Small, but always packed

Of course the always requested Nasi Lemak and Nasi Dagang are also on offer as well as Mee goreng and other savoury dishes. I also tried small banana leaves filled with fermented rice, a traditional treat which nearly tastes like Sake, the Japanese brew. (check here and here for more detailed pics of food)

Obviously there is no modesty in the name choice of this Kuala Lumpur food stall in the Bukit Bintang area (Tengkat ton Shin street to be precise). You might mistrust this promise of a good dining experience if you see it for the first time considering the rather dirty location in a red light district area. But it does indeed attract crowds from the evening on until late at night and more importantly, those beef noodles are really good.


Raw Mee Hoon


Master of pots and bowls


quick fix of noodles, pork sauce on top


Takeaway packaging is a DIY noodle soup construction kit... can we do it?


Voilà, yes we can! And it really tastes yummy. Crunchy beef balls, hearty stock, happy noodles and this rich and slightly sweet minced pork sauce. For me a must if you visit KL!

(read local blogs report about it here, here and here)